Anchorage: Coral Bay, Port Essington NT 

Remote, wild unspoilt Arnhem Lands beckons intrepid mariners to the Top End of Australia 

 
Aboriginal Culture....Wilderness Lodge....European History....Great Fishing

While the 'white fella' refers to the seasons in the Top End simply as the Wet and the Dry, the traditional Garig people of the Cockburn Peninsula follow a far more complex concept, with each of the seven seasons having a vital role to play in the endless renewal of the land.My September visit to Port Essington coincides with the Cloudless Blue season on the Aboriginal calendar.The Garig people call this time the Stillness.The other six seasons are known as Awakening, Empowering, Feeding, Celebrating, Stirring and Purifying. 		 
Coral Bay is often called Seven Spirit Bay due to the Peppers Wilderness Lodge that is located here.The small cove in front of the resort is almost landlocked, and offers a peaceful serene anchorage.The Lodge does not invite day-trippers ashore.However, it is a magnificent eco friendly lodge ideally suited to weary mariners who desire a rewarding ovexperience ashore, not just a hotel room.From paperbark swamps to rainforest jungle, sweeping beaches interrupted by estuaries and rivers, the elegant lodge buildings are designed to harmonise with the environment.Individual freestanding hexagonal habitats are dispersed amidst the natural clutter of rainforest jungle.Five sides of each habitat feature floor to ceiling glass louvres, screened against insects, allowing cool breezes to flow.Private luxury bathrooms, with their floor to ceiling tiles and an abundance of white fluffy towels, are open to the Cloudless Blue Top End sky.  
Englishman Mathew Flinders and Frenchman Nicholas Baudin both played their part in surveying the coastline of the Northern Territory.However, it was not until rumours abounded of Dutch interest in Van Diemens Land in the early 1800s that the British expanded their plans for settlement in the far-flung Empire of King George IV.After failed settlements at Melville Island and Raffles Bay, a more successful colony was established in Port Essington in 1839.Named after the Queen of the time, Victoria soon had crops planted and cattle being grazed.Unlike at the previous attempts at settlement, the local Aboriginals proved friendly and the colony thrived until it was tragically abandoned 11 years later.The Cornish architectural styles of the period can still be seen in the building ruins.
 
The waters of Arnhem Land are jumping with wildlife.Dolphins, turtles and dugong are regularly sighted.According to fishing guru Rex Hunt, Port Essington offers the fishing opportunity of a lifetime.It is a diverse fishing experience with creek, open water and reef fishing all on offer.Competing on the food chain also are estuarine crocodiles (or 'salties') and sharks.Swimming is not encouraged as the tiny, potentially fatal, Irukandgi jellyfish may also be lurking.

Anchorage
Approach Coral Bay with caution, keeping well clear of the reef that extends far out past Walford Pt.Anchorage can be taken southwest of Walford Pt, although some swell may roll around the point.The intriguingly named Gunners Quoin is an obvious landmark on the western shore.On approach into the southern reaches of the bay, head for the centre of the waterway that narrows between two headlands.This unmarked channel is bordered by reef and should only be entered in calm conditions.C-MAP gives accurate detail on the channel, which can be trusted (not always the case in a region with much unsurveyed water).A floating jetty juts out on the western side of a spit.Anchor to the west of here in approx 5mts over good holding mud.

Anchorage location: Lat 11 deg11.7S  Long 132 deg 03.0E

  
Checklist
Best Time to Go

The tropical cyclone season officially begins in November and ends at the end of April.'The wet' is the wrong time of year for mariners to be boating in the Northern Territory.The dry season from May to October will usually find easterly winds, low humidity and daytime temperatures in the low 30's.

How Long to Get There Port Essington is approx 140nm north of Darwin.Given the large tidal influences of this region, it is generally a two day trip from Darwin, assuming some time will be spent at anchor waiting for favourable tides.Spring tides can cause massive tidal currents and eddies making passage almost impossible if travelling against the tide.
Fuel & Provisions

There are no options for obtaining fuel, water or provisions in this remote location.Mariners should be completely self-reliant and re-supply up before departing Darwin or Gove.It is reported that diesel and basic supplies can be purchased from the Black Pt store across the inlet, during opening hours.Water is also available on shore via jerry cans and a dinghy.Take the dinghy ashore at the boat ramp at half tide or higher.

Cruising Guide Northern Territory Coast Cruising Guide by John Knight
Charts: Paper AUS18 Port Essington
Charts: C-Map Coburg to Daly River
Destination Info Tourism Top End and Peppers Seven Spirit Bay Lodge
Zoning Land outside the resort is designated Aboriginal land and permits are required from the Northern Land Council if going ashore.
 
 

  TRAVEL…..BOATING…..LIFESTYLE…..

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