I gradually become aware of the sounds of stillness as I slowly awaken on my first morning in remote Arnhem Land. My first conscious thought, as my befuddled brain clears away the nightime wanderings of a deeply relaxed mind, is how absolute the silence is.However, as I listen more intently I become aware of the unique sounds of a new day awakening in this wilderness hideaway.It is not silent at all. My visit to Peppers Seven Spirit Bay (previously known as Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Lodge as it was at the time of visiting) coincides with the Cloudless Blue season on the Aboriginal calendar. The traditional Garig people of this land call this time the Stillness.

While the 'white fella' refers to the seasons in the Top End simply as the Wet and the Dry, the traditional people follow a far more complex concept, with each of the seven seasons having a vital role to play in the endless renewal of the land.It is from this harmony, and the spiritual nature of the land, with its annual drama and spectacular displays unique to each season, that the lodge derives its name. The other six seasons are known as Awakening, Empowering, Feeding, Celebrating, Stirring and Purifying. I'm expecting to soak up the timelessness, the silence and the peaceful rest that is synonymous with the season of Stillness.I am not disappointed.

In the stillness of the dawn I can hear the dewdrops falling from the trees, dropping ever so softly into the composting undergrowth of the eucalypt forest.This same forest gently twitters with birds calling.The motionless air greets me as I softly pad through the trees down to the beach.I imagine I can hear the trees yawning and stretching through the early morning mist, so palpable is the serenity.Looking across the unruffled, emerald green water of Coral Bay I watch a giant ray gliding every so softly just below the surface.His wing tips piercing the water the only disturbance to the mirror reflections, sending out gentle ripples across the sea.Although only a 45 minute flight from the flashy cafes and hotels of Darwin, at Seven Spirit Bay, on the Coburg Peninsula, I feel I have ventured into another world.

As the waters surrounding the lodge are home to many dangerous creatures, guests are forbidden to swim in the sea.Beach walkers are encouraged to take one of the many in-house tour guides with them, and all walkers must register their intentions with reception before leaving the lodge. Saltwater crocodiles, hammerhead and tiger sharks plus the tiny Irukandgi jellyfish are just some of the potentially fatal dangers lurking in the innocent looking waters.General Manager Robyn Doone intensively briefs new guests on these dangers to ensure they do not underestimate the wilderness."I'm constantly assessing my new arrivals as we do the check in and I take them personally to their habitat.If I think they have not understood the very real dangers in the sea, I will invite them to join me on the cliff top.We don't have to wait too long before a shark cruises by, or a croc is spotted lurking near the mangroves.One time our resident 14ft 'saltie' was conveniently basking in the sun as I tried to convince a doubtful guest not to venture down onto the sweeping white sand beach.He was quickly convinced!" Robyn chortled.

Award Winning
Peppers Seven Spirt Bay was the 2006 winner of Best Unique Accommodation in the Northern Territory Tourism Awards. Wonderfully fresh, innovative cuisine is a highlight of any stay at Seven Spirit Bay.With two Gold Plate awards, in 2004 and again in 2006, dining at the lodge is justification alone for visiting. Menus are changed daily, with fresh produce being flown in on the daily flight from Darwin. If the days fishermen have had a good day, their catch will also feature on the menu.Leisurely hot breakfasts on the deck are cooked to order.New arrivals will meet Gwen, the in-house masseuse, as they are seated for lunch.If there was ever any doubt about the special status of guests here, Gwen soon dispenses with any of these as she offers a complimentary neck and shoulder massage before lunch, an eclectic selection of light meals, being served.However, it is the evenings, dining on the deck overlooking the Arafura Sea that the Gold Plate award winning style becomes evident.Expect starched white linen with soft candle light dancing upon the crystal glassware as you dine beneath a star filled canopy sparkling across the sea.

Bathe Beneath the Stars
Being a wilderness lodge, the grounds offer a huge range of environmental diversity.Don't be surprised to see buffalo, deer, wild boar, wallabies and Timor Ponies roaming through the bush as you wander from the hub of the lodge to your habitat.Surrounded by paperbark swamps to rainforest jungle, with sweeping beaches interrupted by estuaries and rivers, the elegant lodge buildings are designed to harmonise with the environment.Individual freestanding hexagonal habitats are dispersed amidst the natural rainforest clutter. Five sides of each habitat feature floor to ceiling glass louvres, screened against insects, allowing cool breezes to flow.Private luxury bathrooms, with their floor to ceiling tiles and an abundance of white fluffy towels, are open to the Cloudless Blue Top End sky.With the warm tropical air caressing naked skin, surrounded by forest with its chattering ubiquitous wildlife, guests can savour that unique feeling that only bathing under a star filled night sky can bring.

The complimentary walking tour to Kennedy Bay is more a bush safari than a challenging walk.We set out from the lodge in an open sided Landcruiser, bouncing down a dusty track.Our young guide Alison ('call me Ali' she said by way of introduction) was a passionate naturalist with an engaging personality.We frequently stopped enroute as Ali excitedly jumped down from the drivers seat as she spotted newly sprouting flora.Spotting a bright buttercup coloured flower trackside, she enthusiastically pointed out the Kapok plant to our group. As we admired its bright colour and the exquisite petal formations, Ali quickly plucked them from the stem.Handing one to each of us, she insisted we eat them!Feeling somewhat less enthusiastic than our excited guide, I popped a petal into my mouth.Once I overcame my hesitation at chomping into a flower (feeling somewhat like the buffalo I had seen grazing earlier) I was pleasantly surprised to discover a curiously pleasant nutty flavour.

Intrepid travellers who savour their wilderness with a dash of champagne and fine dining will find a unique experience awaiting them at Peppers Seven Spirit Bay. Immerse yourself soon in the exquisite peaceful harmony amongst the seven seasons of the Coburg Peninsula.