Bucaneers and the Burrup Peninsula


Exploring the Dampier Archipelago in the Pilbara region of North West Australia


Dampier Archipelago PilbaraThe Jolly Roger pirate flag flutters gently in the warm dusk breeze as Jimmy Buffet quietly harmonises the virtues of sailing the tropical waters of Margaritaville. Onboard the charter yacht Spinifex Spray, guests may vaguely recall their high school history lessons as Skipper Brad Beaumont talks keenly of pirates and buccaneers who laid claim to be the first white men to explore this land more than 300 years ago. Visiting the aptly named Pirates Cove where the English buccaneer William Dampier came ashore in 1699 is one of the highlights of this cruise, not just for the history lesson, but also for the opportunity to wander ashore along one of the 150 pristine beaches on the 42 islands that comprise the Dampier Archipelago.
 

Flying Foam Passage
Tall ships from the pearling fleet that harvested these waters 120 years ago sheltered from cyclones in Flying Foam Passage, not always successfully, with some being wrecked on the imposing shoreline. Dolphin Island is the final resting place for some of these mariners with six marked graves found here. Nearby, the infamous Flying Foam Massacre took place in 1868, when 60 Aboriginal people from the Yapurarra tribe were slaughtered in response to the death of a local Policeman. A plaque overlooking King Bay on the Burrup Peninsula reminds visitors of this troubling history.  Recent cyclones have washed away the sand on Whalers Beach on Malus Island to reveal enormous whale bones previously buried beneath the beach, along with other relics from the whale station that operated here from around 1840.
 
Dampier Archipelago PilbaraSailing the tranquil waters of Mermaid Straight today, the true character of the rugged Pilbara terrain quickly becomes evident. Here the landscape is strikingly dominated by scores of islands dotted with contrasting shades of reds and greens: great masses of basalt externally weathered to a deep, rich iron hue are interspersed with undulating grass covered hills, lush and blooming after a lively wet season. Steep coastal cliffs fall sharply down into the turquoise sea. Dramatic headlands give way to gently sloping beaches. The warm, sparkling waters are perfect for snorkelling amongst the brilliant coral. Four species of turtle nest in these islands: beach walkers will often see their tracks leading up the beach to a nest during their breeding season. 

Industry of the Burrup
Established by Hamersley Iron in the 1960s, which operate a fascinating Port Tour, the town of Dampier is pleasantly situated on the Burrup Peninsula, approximately 1500 km north of Perth by road, or two hours by plane. The Burrup Peninsula is, confusingly, not a peninsula at all but an island. It is linked to the mainland by a man-made causeway across tidal salt flats that visiors to Dampier. Overlooking the busy Port of Dampier with its tranquil Hampton Harbour, Dampier is perfectly positioned to access the delightful islands of the archipelago, and is the departure point for your island exploration. 

With the exception of the Burrup, the islands of the Dampier Archipelago are uninhabited, although some locals have constructed squatter type weekend shacks.The best way to explore this remote archipelago is to take a cruise with one of the two charter operators based in Dampier. Or better still, why not drive yourself? Self drive hire boats are available for those independent souls with the skills required to handle a small powerboat. This is an ideal way to enable a day full of snorkelling, swimming or fishing. Perhaps pack a picnic and venture out to one of the countless deserted white sand beaches the area is renown for.

Dampier Archipelago PilbaraDominating the Port is the towering infrastructure of the North West Shelf Venture, alongside the enormous salt and iron-ore piles waiting onshore to be loaded onto giant ships. The scale of the industry is overwhelming. Last year the Port loaded 2100 ships (that's 40 per week, or one ship every four hours!). Don't be surprised to see one of these gigantic ships manoeuvring as you sail past Tidepole Island with its basalt rock castle nestled amidst swaying palm trees.

Locals affectionately know this island that lies 400m off the Dampier shore, as Sam's Island, after the local character who adopted the island as his home.  Sam spent 40 years beautifying Tidepole, rearranging the basalt rocks into a type of medieval castle. He imported sand onto the once barren island and started a coconut palm grove. Sadly, Sam passed away in 2005. He was laid to rest on his beloved island in an elaborate ceremony involving countless friends who turned up on all types of boats to pay tribute to this much loved character. Sams Island should be your first stop on your discovery of the archipelago.  

Dampier Archipelago PilbaraRock Art of the Pilbara
Five minutes drive from Dampier, on 'the Burrup', is an astounding collection of Aboriginal rock art galleries. The Burrup has significant ecological and archaeological heritage. It contains one of the world's largest collections of ancient rock carvings, dated at up to 20,000 years old.  Numbers vary as to the exact number of rock carvings, as many have been destroyed or relocated by the resource industry, but it appears to be in the hundreds of thousands. Deep Gorge and King Bay are easily accessible to visitors, with scores of engravings of wallabies, dugongs and human figures, along with a magnificent pair of birds scratching in the dirt. See Rocking the Pilbara for more info on the art of the Burrup

The traditional owners note that the spiritual force is alive in the thousands of rock engravings here on the Burrup. They say they can hear and see this energy that ties them to the land, and the land to them. Jimmy Buffet may have pondered a similarly spiritual sentiment on his sea going journey to Margaritaville.

Checklist
Getting There Qantas & Skywest fly to Karratha from Perth
Where to Stay Karratha International Hotel & Dampier Mermaid Hotel
Visitors travelling to the Burrup on their own vessel can anchor in Dampier Harbour, a short dinghy trip from the Hampton Harbour Boat Club. There are no marinas in the Pilbara, with the exception of a Fishing Boat Harbour at Point Samson to the north.
When to Go The dry season, between May and October is the best time to go. Expect warm sunny days, low humidty and balmy tropical nights.
Must See Rock art galleries on the Burrup Peninsula; watch the sunset from Mermaid Strait or Pirates Cove; snorkel over purple brain coral at Malus Island; Hamersely Iron Port tour.
Discovery Sailing Adventures ph 0408 880 1440 - Operates full day island  cruises, plus sunset harbour cruises for up to 10 people on a 12mtr fully crewed sailing yacht.  Overnight cruises are available on request.  BYO food and drinks.  Pick up avail from Dampier/Karratha hotels.
We Adore The timelessness of an ancient land amongst the islands when ducking into sheltered coves, concealed from the industry site of a bustling port.
We Abhor Limited dining opportunities means visitors to Dampier can be subjected to poor food options at high prices.
 


 Updated September 2008


 
 


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