Award Winning
Capes was named "Indigenous Tour Guide of the Year" at the 2006 Ghunkai Awards for Indigenous Tourism Excellence. Wula Guda Nyinda was awarded silver for Indigenous Tourism at the 2007 Western Australian Tourism Awards. Capes warned us before we left the Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort that we would see and hear many of the animals and birds that live in this country. We would learn to recognise the tracks of kangaroo, emu, snake and lizard. "Keep your eyes and ears and open and you will understand how this country can talk to you," advised Capes. However I wasn't prepared for such a close encounter with the green mulga snake that came slithering within a metre of our group. After our startled gasps, it moved harmlessly away into the grass. At the bird hide adjacent to the watering hole, we saw emus darting away through the bush, and we prodded the fresh kangaroo spoor. The track and the spoor of the kangaroo can discern much: where it is heading, what it has been eating, whether old or young, travelling fast or slow, sick or injured. This country certainly does have a lot to say if you are prepared to listen.

The Malgana people follow the creed of education, understanding and respect. It is this principle that guides our meander through these ancient lands. "We share this country, and take only what we need. We respect this country and it will look after us.Tread softly and do no damage," our guide instructs us. Advice that would be well heeded in many aspects of our lives, not just here in red sand country. The bush is alive with food and water once you know where to find it. Capes takes us to his favourite bush lolly trees: the Charlie Tree he calls one of them. The tiny red berries are a spicy combination of lemon and pepper, while others look like miniature tomatoes with a similar taste and texture. Saltbush is aptly named: sucking on the cactus like stalk leaves a salty but enjoyable taste in the mouth. The sandalwood tree provides nuts similar in size and texture to a hazelnut, and without doubt is the most enjoyable taste on this bush gourmand's tour.

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort
Before expanding his tours to include the evening Didgeridoo Dreaming tour, Capes sat on the board of the Yadgalah Aboriginal Corporation.The YAC shares 50% ownership of the Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort with Indigenous Business Australia. These two groups have much input into the resort, with an indigenous traineeship program in place. One of their aims is to create employment opportunities for the traditional people within the tourism industry.

The current resort has evolved over the years from a simple camping area on the shores of Dolphin Beach. The first inkling of the treasure that awaits you at the beachside resort comes as you crest the dunes to catch a quick glimpse of the sparkling aquamarine waters, contrasting sharply with the iron rich soil of Red Cliff Bay. The turquoise, hyper saline water of Shark Bay only ever varies in its intensity of colour. It is this water and its mesmerising colour that sets the tone and pace for the laid back style of this resort.

Expansion in 2005 saw the Dolphin Lodge added to the variety of accommodation options. Modern motel style beach side rooms have either a large upstairs balcony, or ground floor rooms opening onto a deck and the well-maintained gardens. Beachfront villas are absolute beach front, opening directly onto the beach. All, of course, have uninterrupted views of that eternally blue sea. Budget travellers are well catered for with innovative shared ensuite rooms, or, alternatively in dorm style rooms. Campers are able to pitch their tents amongst the bougainvilleas and palm trees. An enormous, modern, well-equipped communal kitchen allows guest to self cater if they wish. Free gas BBQs are dotted throughout the resort gardens and all guests are welcome to utilise these facilities. Or opt for the casual sophistication of open air dining at the Boughshed Restaurant overlooking that mesmerising azure sea.

Bottlenose Dolphins
International visitors make up almost half the travellers to Monkey Mia. The year round sunshine certainly attracts its share of sun lovers escaping the northern winter. But the most cherished visitors here are not the human kind at all. It is the daily visits to the beach by a regular group of bottlenose dolphins that are the undoubted star attraction. The dolphins have been traced back four generations and come into the shallows voluntarily. According to Capes, his uncle Jimmy Poland was hand feeding these dolphins as far back as 1941. Each morning visitors line the beach to partake of this rare opportunity to interact with these wild dolphins.

Standing high on the ridge above Monkey Mia, amongst red sand country, with the blue waters stretching out before us, the sense of peace here is palpable. This country has much to teach us if only we stand still long enough to listen. The saltwater people of Shark Bay have many treasures they wish to share.